Tricks, Traps and Ideas

Tricks Traps and Ideas

Some tricks, traps, skills or ideas associated with our life with G-whizz, or if I see something of interest on the internet I will provide a link to it here.

Acronyms of Sail Race Scoring
D1-30 – 130S Air in raw water cooling system
Coiling lines
PFD Self Inspection and Service
Ronstan Clear Start Watch Resetting
Soft Shackles
Transom Shower Scandvik Cup and Cover

The Acronyms of Sail Race Scoring

Ever wondered what all those abbreviations and acronyms mean on the results sheet? So did we so we did a bit of research. Read it in our news page by clicking here.

D1-30 – 130S Air in raw water cooling system

We recently solved a problem with the cooling system on G-whizz, the symptoms were very low quantity of water from the exhaust and steam from the exhaust at anything above idle when in gear.

The observations with the engine running were a lot of air in the raw water lines on both sides of the pump, little or no water in the raw water strainer. The problem was traced to an air leak in a join between a raw water hose and the spigot to which it was attached. A story of this saga can be found on this site here.

Soft Shackles

Link to Soft Shackles a Better Way – (On this site)

Ronstan Clear Start Watch Resetting;

Not mentioned in the instructions is what happens when the battery of the Ronstan Clear Start watch gets a bit flat, is that when you press the set button the watch momentarily displays every character on the dial then resets itself to 12:00.  Seems that if the light function is turned on (Set turns the back light on)  and the set button is pressed it turns on the backlight, which draws a lot of power.  Drawing more power from the weak battery causes the voltage to drop to a point where the watch resets.

The watch was also behaving strangely when the clear button was pressed, I normally reset the time before every race and pressing the clear button enters the appropriate mode, every digit and icon on the display would turn on when clear was pressed and it just sat there sulking eventually resetting itself.

A fresh battery fitted and all is good again.

Thanks to a contributor to Sailing Anarchy who goes by the name XYZZY who posted this information long before I knew there was a problem!

Coiling lines (Coiling rope)

One of the skills that really sets a competent crew member from a passenger is the ability to coils lines. A properly coiled line is easy to deploy, easy to stow and allows uncoiling without tangles and kinks, it also looks good!

A kink in a line in action can vary from being bit of a pain to being downright dangerous, anyone that has had a spinnaker halyard jam during a drop will know exactly what I mean.

The method of coiling most commonly used will put twist into the line, there is some school of thought that continual twisting of twin core line could induce memory into the rope structure giving kinks forever. Just about every yacht I have been on uses a simple coiling method, but a better method is coiling in a figure eight, the following YouTube video is a good reference. (Just ignore the video game that is playing in the background towards the end, look through companion way, and the guy’s enormous hands that really does make it look really easy, especially the way he uses his little finger as a temporary hook when finishing off).  The ads at the beginning would suggest that this video gets a lot of views.

Inflatable PFD Self Service Instructions

First a caveat; it would appear that different jurisdictions have different rules regarding who can service and how often inflatable PFDs should be serviced, further different manufacture make different recommendations for servicing. I’m not sure where I found the following however the text and graphics keep popping in a number of locations, I guess that they have now popped up on this site.

A  copy of PFD Self Service instructions, the last page of which is an inspection certificate can be download from this site here. (pdf file)

 Portable Document Format vs Personal Flotation Device – a bit confusing but that’s a whole different story for another time and place.

Transom Shower Scandvik Cup and Cover Modification

G-whizz Elan 340 Scandvik
What the Scandvik Cup and Cover looks like when new,

The Transom shower on G-whizz consists mainly of Scandvik parts, these components seem to be fitted to most Elan yachts that I have seen, I have also seen them on a number of other European built yachts. While they are very compact and

practical there is either a design flaw or a substandard material specification. the tongue that connects the cap to the cup goes through a severe bend, it eventually (actually quite quickly) breaks.

A few years ago I found a source of these

components at only to have

G-whizz Elan 340 Scandvik
The 2 Scandvick Shower Cups with caps on G-whizz after a simple modification.

that little joining tongue break again. I decided on a simple modification, that Should have come to mind a long time ago, get rid of that pesky tongue and replace it with a piece of cord – simples!




The Scandvik Shower Cup
The Scandvik Shower Cup with a piece of the broken tongue in place
G-whizz Elan 340 Scandvik Shower Cap
Scandvik Deck Cup Cover Top side showing cord Modified Scandvik Cap before tieing the stop knot and removing the suspect tongue.
Scandvik Shower Cap
Scandvik Deck Cup Cover Top side showing cord on modified Scandvik Cap
Scandvik Deck Cup Cover 3
Scandvik Deck Cup Cover Underside showing stop knot on modified Scandvik Cap

G-whizz Elan 340